Wine With Simon Woods: New York State Riesling

hi there Simon froze own words at the dot-com ah maybe this is the first floor drinking outside the box today I’ve got six wines from New York State maybe I’ve done one or two I’m not even sure whether I’ve done that before let never had six I’ve got six Rieslings to from North Fork Long Island I think they’re both from North Fork but Long Island and four from the Finger Lakes falling into the dry to Jeru medium to dry to medium end of everything and even the dry ones have got a little bit of sugar in there but I think the idea is because they’ve got quite a bit of fresh grippy acidity are you won’t you don’t notice the sweetness so much or do you twist is digging and find out I told them in vintage order and then within vintage by alcohol so first one I’ve got is palma knock from North Fork and it’s 2010 and riesling weighing in at eleven percent alcohol clean sup Eli nice style got a whiff of firm of soft dioxide and just only just pulled the pull the tin lid off so but I think that that’s going to dissipate with time feels like he’s gonna be able to quite fine boned a little wine underneath not huge complexity but smells like it’s gonna be low light refreshing and some of that grittiness that makes you think I would like a bit of seafood then when you come to try there’s this like as someone’s of those if someone’s got a dusting of icing sugar on there not that it comes across the sweet but it’s just adding that little dusting is so your dusty icing too I can’t think of another way of putting it reminds me of firm of some new zealand styles if i have a problem with it I’d almost like it to be more on that dryer style I know dad some of them eat some of these actually so on the back how much residual sugars in here I would have been tempted to do the fermentation a little bit further get a little bit more acidic grip in there and yeah because he’s got he’s got enough around us and sweetness of fruit in there there’s little bit of maybe a bit of very ripe Apple but it’s the right citrus as the main fruity event yeah good but um great but tasty next one and this I think this is one of the pioneers of the Finger Lakes Herman g or wiemer Riesling reserve a drive from the Finger Lakes established 1979 so first one was it eleven percent alcohol this one weighs in at twelve point eight percent so why don’t eat all the bottle so it must be better but let’s see whether it’s a taller broader shouldered wine well the first one was New Zealand in a model this feels more on that may be trying out Al’s our style feels like you’ve got quite a bit of weight behind it but peach eNOS to the citrus fruit here but also this a little bit of minerality coming through smells like it’s going to be a more concentrated full of bodied wine but maybe a little bit drier we’ll see you get the zest the rounded apple and peach and maybe even a little bit of pear in there and something a slightly more exotic maybe some guava and then this mineral note comes through as with the first one I think that maybe there’s a case to be made for making it even a little bit drier but i know that some pallets don’t like drew them quite like riesling where you can almost feel your buttons clench of it this one there is some fresh grip eNOS but I almost like a little bit more but certainly a step up on on the permanent and I like that stretch i like that mineral edge it feels like feels like there’s more of that wine still to come out I mean I’ve only just opened it I wouldn’t be surprised in an hour or so it’s singing a little bit even more sweetly um ok on to 2009 vintage now with The Grapes of Wrath are oth apparently the producers called a room on or off and so this is so we’re back in Long Island here and two thousand and nine eleven percent alcohol let’s give it a whirl I candied as in not candid camera a candied peel and candied orange zestiness there’s this broad almost a toasty character there may be a bit of raisins in there and lemon jelly I’m just wondering whether there’s a little bit of fruit that’s gone on to the what they called soo much early days and late harvest fruit in that adding roundness and plumpness and it feels like it’s going to be a sweeter style but let’s have a see actually we score what I call the sweet-and-sour attention so I think it is a little bit sweeter than maybe the Pullman all but it’s richer with it and it feels like that be it feels like those there’s more waiting the fruit in the first place but it feels like he’s still got quite a lot of acidity to keep it tense what am I saying I get this rhubarb I get this juiciness and there’s there’s a floral blossom type character in there I was worried when I smell that lemon jelek so that makes me think often that the wines are going to be a bit simple but it’s not a simple style yes it’s it does feel like it’s got this richness tempered by this backbone of spine of acidity of minerality classy wine probably my favorite so far I don’t know whether how much of a difference there was in vintages between these two so or boots or whether it’s the vintage talking or the winemaker but whatever it is it’s talking it’s saying it rather sweetly yeah like that it’s got a bracing character about the finish that was some absent in the first two maybe not absent in the second one but so that this one do this one just seems to have that little bit more liveliness and vivacity I like the datus wines let’s see whether the next three are vivacious first of the welcome one number four TS dry Riesling from the Finger Lakes and 2009 vintage and let’s give this on the world rather nice label again I’ve just pulled the screw cap off so I’m getting this big waft of sulfur dioxide and out but then behind there it feels like it’s some it seems almost seems to be dampening the the wine down and that’s the idea of putting you in in the first place not so the wine doesn’t doesn’t develop too quickly if I have a problem with it it could do with almost like being a little bit lower in level of sulfur dioxide letting the fruit jump out of the glass more so I’m going to keep swirling and see what I get and but as I say at the moment it just feels slightly dumbed down and then it starts to emerge so you’re getting the it Sizemore one of those they done etiquette it looks maybe this the vintage hear that this feels rounder and where’s the maybe the 2010s have more of the citrus this one feels more rounded peach plum type of character but with a bit of bracing character behind you as well so um yes I mean it’s getting it smelling better buy it by the minute so I’m going to slip and have a swig of it and see how I get on just been having a look on the back label it says lean and focused well I wouldn’t disagree with the Lena sit is that it is quite quite sleek if anything I could I could do with almost a little bit more flesh on the bones here it’s it’s it’s certainly balance but in terms of overall presence as a wine it’s neither complex nor full and fleshy so perfectly Pleasant a nice easy drinking style good dry finish it’s not it’s not one of those that’s trying to overwhelm you with the with sugary sweetness but but in terms of yet overall overall wine character I would just like a little bit yeah a little few more a few more grace notes a few more a few more layers it said it’s a honest simple juicy tasty wine but not the extra mile nicely structured I think it’s going to go on for a little bit of three or four years at least under said but and I think it’s going to change rather than improved massively very willing to be proved wrong but that’s how I feel at the moment one number five is a red Newt sellers Riesling and sawmill Creek Vineyards Finger Lakes 2009 so that first of these last three finger lakes want was blah blah 12.2 percent alcohol this one is 12.6 percent alcohol but same vintage 2009 back to that slightly and I was talking about a dusting of icing sugar Lecter and if you imagine having dolly mixture that that’s slightly gritty gritty white sugary coating that you get on their candy and ate snails okay there was a reasonable bit of citrus grip behind but feels on the simple side don’t know whether they get botrytis in this part of the world but there’s something like a ever so slightly apricot e peachy richness there it may just be a little bit of later harvested fruit rather than something that’s gone got on the botrytis but a lot of these remind me of Australian wrestling’s of the 1980s there was there was Uncle hungerford hill that coonawarra Riesling don’t see too much coonawarra Riesling around now and before they went slightly anal retentive which is one of the problems of the 90s and early noughties and feels like there’s a tighter more precise wine to be made from this fruit as if a little bit of sorting would would be a good idea so I’m like the flavors I like their honesty I like that roundness and richness but I would like a little bit more precision in the wine good but not quite there for me final one and the oldest one 2008 from red Newt sellers again we’re Finger Lakes here and alcohol wise this is 11.7 percent and don’t show me page here it feels like it’s lost its um its immediate fruit freshness of youth and the fruits just going a little bit bruised and raisiny so if you get it there’s the Apple age but its mother baked apples there’s a bit of the citrus but it’s gone into that slightly orange leak your type of character let’s taste it well it is showing a little bit of its age and it’s almost between two stools it feels like it’s lost the freshness of youth hasn’t quite got the the honeyed richness of maturity I don’t know whether it’s ever going to be extremely classic it reminds me I suppose medium to low grade alsace riesling that’s got a few years in bottle but you think okay maybe I should have got it when he was younger and perkiest I do like my Riesling on the perky side although having said that I had a 2005 Hugel Jubilee Riesling last night which was suddenly have three years old than these and then that one and still L brimming with life and have the mineral character and have the the weight it had the touch of sweetness but lovely balanced with the acidity if there’s I mean I he’s a very decent wine I’m very I’d certainly have at least a second glass of that but I mean what than what marks out the best ones for me i mean i think that the authority the great of rough and then and the reamer there they’re probably my two favorites of this law they they have they have that that weight they have the Christmas and they have the structure and they have the balance and yes as his perkiness there’s this not just not just around us and gentleness and softness you get the feeling of what i call life beyond fruit so but i mean it as a range of six wines if people say yes people might say to do they make wine in england it’s a wine in new york yes they do it’s certainly it’s pretty good and i will be certainly i think probably the trying to find some some slightly Southeast Asian recipes with which I can polish off a maybe at least a bottle of these tonight no just by myself of course but i’ll look forward to doing it see you soon you

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